A flagship destination in southern Italy, we took advantage of our road trip through Puglia to visit Polignano a Mare. The historic center of this town founded by the Greeks is perched on high sea cliffs. Beyond its charm, the old town offers beautiful sea views, especially of the famous beach wedged between two narrow cliffs.
What to do in Polignano a Mare ? What are the must-see sights ? Where can you find the most beautiful beaches ? Where to stay in Polignano a Mare ? I explain everything in this travel guide following our stay in October.
What to do in Polignano a Mare : the old town
All the must-see sights in Polignano a Mare are located in the historic center or just a short walk away. The old town is easy to explore on foot once you’ve left your vehicle in one of the nearby parking areas. As for the beaches, apart from those at the foot of the cliffs in the historic center, you need to get there by car. The sights are presented in the order we followed to visit Polignano a Mare.
For a slightly more original experience, you can opt for this Street Food Tour with tastings and wine. During this guided food tour, you’ll sample specialties such as focaccia, panzerotto, burrata, capopollo, and regional wine.
If you’re a small group and would like insights from a local to learn more about the city’s history, I recommend this private tour of Polignano a Mare with a English-speaking guide.
Arco Marchesale
This is the gateway to the historic center of Polignano a Mare. It was built in 1530 and originally had a drawbridge. You can still see the two slits that allowed the chains to slide on either side of the fresco depicting the Crucifixion of Christ. The moat and ramparts disappeared in the 19th century.
By turning immediately left after the Arco Marchesale, you reach the Chiesa del Purgatorio, which was closed during our visit. Built in 1768, the church is typical of Lecce Baroque. Unfortunately, due to the narrowness of the street, it’s impossible to photograph its façade. Extending straight ahead from the entrance gate, Piazzetta F. Miani Perotti leads to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
Surrounded by bars and restaurants, this square is the liveliest in the old town. If you’re wondering what to do in Polignano a Mare in the evening, I recommend stopping by here. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is bordered by several interesting buildings, the most important being the chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta and the Palazzo dell’Orologio. This 18th-century palace, once the seat of the municipal authority, is topped by a mechanical clock that replaced the original sundial. Above it stands the patron saint, San Vito.
Chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta
The origins of this church date back to 672, but the current version dates from 1580. All that remains of the first building is a side façade made of roughly hewn limestone. In 1743, the chiesa Matrice di Santa Maria Assunta underwent a major restoration and was enriched with a marble altar crafted by a Neapolitan master. The building nevertheless retains the characteristics of Puglian Romanesque style, with modifications attributable to the Baroque period.
The interior houses a wooden choir from 1611 and a wooden pulpit from the 16th century. The wooden ceiling of the central nave and transept is covered with a fresco painted in 1720, depicting scenes from the martyrdom of San Vito.
Grotta dell’Arcivescovado viewpoint
From Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, take Via San Benedetto, which runs to the left of the church, then turn into Vico Gualdella. At the end of the street (map) is a balcony offering one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Polignano a Mare. From the Grotta dell’Arcivescovado belvedere, the view looks out over houses built right on the cliff edge above the sea. Since this side of the old town faces northeast, it’s best to come in the morning when the sun illuminates the white house façades. At the foot of the cliffs, you can see the many caves of Polignano a Mare.
There is a second, fairly similar viewpoint nearby called Punto panoramico (map). It offers a slightly more open panorama over the large cave.
Lama Monachile belvedere
Also known as balconata di Santo Stefano, this belvedere set on a former bastion is the most famous in Polignano a Mare. You’ve certainly seen it on social media. It offers the most beautiful view of Lama Monachile Beach, the city-center beach wedged between the cliffs. You shouldn’t have any trouble finding it, but if in doubt, it’s located here.
Streets of the historic center
One of the pleasures of visiting Polignano a Mare in Puglia is strolling through the small streets of the historic center. The old town, with its white houses and numerous plants and flowers scattered everywhere, is very photogenic. As usual, don’t hesitate to leave the commercial streets with restaurant terraces and wander into the quieter alleys. That’s where the little treasures of the historic center are found.
Mirador blue viewpoint
This belvedere is located in the eastern part of the city, at the edge of the more modern area. Here you are directly above the famous restaurant whose tables are set inside a cave in Polignano a Mare. Aside from this feature, the panorama is a bit less impressive than from the Grotta dell’Arcivescovado viewpoint. But since you’ll likely pass by here while visiting Polignano a Mare, it’s worth making a quick stop (map).
Regarding the restaurant “Grotta Palazzese” set in the cave, we were considering going there for dinner. The setting is very romantic. But that was before seeing the reviews—and especially the outrageous prices. Apparently, the cuisine is nowhere near the level suggested by the prices. So if any blog readers have been there, I’d be happy to hear your feedback.
Roman bridge
This Roman bridge (Ponte Romano in Italian) is located a few meters west of the Arco Marchesale, the gateway to the historic center. It allowed the valley to be crossed in Roman times (it dates from the 2nd century) and was an integral part of the Via Traiana, which connected Beneventum (Benevento) to Brindisi. Aside from its historical aspect, the restored bridge itself is of limited interest. It does, however, offer an unmissable viewpoint of the newer bridge that spans Lama Monachile Beach. The latter, with its large arches, was built in the 1830s and can be crossed by car when the road is not pedestrianized.
To reach the Roman Bridge, take the staircase just before the Lama Monachile bridge. Continuing downhill leads to the beach.
Lama Monachile beach
This beach is part of Polignano a Mare’s postcard image and appears in all the brochures. It’s especially impressive when viewed from above, as it’s wedged between cliffs at the foot of the old town houses. Lama Monachile Beach is quite narrow and always crowded, especially during the high season in July and August. Even in my photo taken on a weekday in mid-October, you can see that there are plenty of people.
Fans of fine sand may be disappointed, as Lama Monachile Beach is made up of pebbles of varying sizes mixed with some sand. On the other hand, it’s free (which isn’t always the case in Italy). Besides the belvedere mentioned earlier in this Polignano a Mare travel guide, you’ll also enjoy another beautiful view of the beach from the Lama Monachile bridge (photo 1).
Monument to Domenico Modugno
The name of this Italian, famous worldwide, may not ring a bell—but you definitely know him. He’s the singer of “Volare.” If that still doesn’t help, here’s his song. He’s known well beyond Italy’s borders. We even ran into a group of Japanese tourists singing his song !
Polignano a Mare is the birthplace of Domenico Modugno (1928–1994), and the town has dedicated a statue to him on the Via Conversano esplanade (map). It’s an unmissable stop when visiting Polignano a Mare, especially since you can also enjoy a beautiful panorama of the old town and the sea at the same time.
Caves of Polignano a Mare
The cliffs at the foot of Polignano a Mare’s old town are home to numerous caves that can be explored by boat, kayak, or paddleboard. The only cave accessible on foot from the historic center is the one housing the restaurant mentioned above.
Among the excursions, I recommend this cruise to the caves with an aperitif. You’ll enjoy breathtaking views and discover hidden coves. You can also swim in turquoise waters or sunbathe on the deck. A traditional Italian aperitif is served on board. If you prefer more eco-friendly or sport-oriented outings, this stand-Up Paddle Tour should appeal to you.
The last option for discovering the sea caves is to rent a boat through Click&Boat. This leading online rental company offers the best prices and a choice of more than 40,000 boats from private owners and professionals. You can opt for a boat with or without a license, and with or without a professional skipper. See available boats in Polignano a Mare.
Where to stay in Polignano a Mare ?
To stay by the sea and access the Adriatic beaches, sleeping in Polignano a Mare is a good option. There are many villages to visit in the surrounding area. Here are a few places I recommend for staying in Polignano a Mare. Prices vary depending on the year, peaking in summer (July and August). Be sure to book well in advance during this period.
- 59 € : DON GIL Casa Vacanze, rated fabulous, one of the cheapest options for staying in Polignano a Mare. This 95 m² apartment with a balcony, located just steps from the historic center, can accommodate up to 4 people.
- 60 € : All`Ombra del Carrubo, accommodation offering rooms and a studio for 4 people around a garden with a swimming pool. Private parking included. Located 3 km from the city center—convenient for exploring the area while staying close to the beach.
- 64 € : Dimora dei Pellegrini 8, this ground-floor apartment is located in a charming part of the center, very close to the viewpoints above the cliffs. Free street parking.
- 70 € : MandorleOlio, this bed & breakfast is located 800 m from the old town but has the advantage of offering free private parking, which is rare in the area. Rooms for 2 to 4 people with breakfast included.
- 84 € : La Naca sul Porto, very well located in the historic center, offering beautiful double rooms, some with a balcony and sea view. The big plus is its rooftop terrace. Lama Monachile Beach is 100 meters away.
- 87 € : L’ARCO ANTICO – Una Casa sul Mare, another charming address located in the old town. The room has a terrace with city views. Private parking available for €15 per day and breakfast included.
Travel guide and tips for visiting Polignano a Mare
How to get to Polignano a Mare ?
Before arriving in Polignano a Mare, you’ll need to pass through one of Puglia’s two airports. Bari Airport is the closest, but Brindisi Airport can also be the starting point for a road trip in Puglia. To choose between the two, I recommend comparing flight prices on Skyscanner.
Polignano a Mare is 35 km south of Bari. The drive takes less than 40 minutes via the strada statale, the Italian equivalent of national roads. In summer, travel time can be longer due to frequent traffic jams. A car is almost essential for visiting Puglia, especially when reaching beaches away from towns. To find the best rates among all rental companies, I always use this comparison site, it guarantees the lowest prices.
The town of Monopoli is only 8 km south of Polignano a Mare. Visiting both historic centers can easily be done in the same day.
Where to park in Polignano a Mare ?
The historic center of Polignano a Mare is a ZTL (limited traffic zone). Entry is prohibited without authorization, and fines are steep. An electronic sign at the entrance indicates whether the ZTL is open or closed. In any case, I recommend looking for parking outside the old town.
There are several paid parking lots near the historic center. We used parcheggio San Francesco, located a 5-minute walk away. Parking is paid from April 1 to September 30 from 8 a.m. to 2 a.m., and only on weekends between October 1 and March 31. The rate is €2 per hour. If you’re willing to walk and move farther from the center, you can find free parking to visit Polignano a Mare.
How much time to spend in Polignano a Mare ?
The historic center, which contains all the must-see sights in Polignano a Mare, isn’t very large. Moreover, there are few buildings or museums to visit. You’ll therefore spend more time strolling through the streets, enjoying the viewpoints, or taking a break at a café. The time you spend will depend on your travel style, but you can plan for half a day to visit Polignano a Mare. A bit more if you plan to spend time at the beach. As for us, we spent 2 hours there.
This travel guide on the best things to do in Polignano a Mare is ended. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the blog comments.